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Damname

To anyone changing the thermostat on a gl1100

22 posts in this topic Last Reply

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Damname

I read that you have to remove the radiator to change the thermostat. I just found out that you dont have to luckily.

 

All i did was take the panels off under the fairing that cover the horns. Take the cover off the water pump that is attached to the hose going into the radiator. Remove the front bolts to the radiator so that it is able to swing back and forth from the bottom. At this point it seems like the radiator should come out but something is blocking it from the top. Once you get the radiator loose enough to swing a lil bit, use an 8mm wrench (the longer the better) and remove the bolts to the thermostat housing. Work the housing free while you have the bottom part of the radiator pulled outward. You should now be able to remove the thermostat and replace with your new one.

 

clapper.gif

 

What stinks is, once i got the thermostat out and brought it and the new one back into the house for some boiling, the old thermostat checked out and is fine. I went ahead and replaced it anyway. Since the fan is waiting to kick on when its almost in the red, it means the thermo fan switch is bad. It looks like a deep well socket with a long extension will get the job done, but i done have one that fits. I need to find out what size the switch is and find the proper socket. I believe this can be changed without taking the radiator out as well.

 

Good luck!

 

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DaveO430

If I had seen your post on overheating I could have told you it wasn't the thermostat. It is probably not the fan switch either. I have never seen 1 of those do that, they just stop working at all. You need to check the actual temperature at the thermostat outlet with an infrared temp gun.

 

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Damname

heya dave :) very curious about your reply. i am open to all possibilities in this matter. in the event that the temp checks out with the gun or what have ya, what do you think it could be?

 

thanks

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plskthompson

I would suggest a bad gauge if everything else checks out.

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Damname

kk ty

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Damname

well the bike never technically overheated. if i taped up the gauge i would have never known there was a problem.

 

could it be the sending unit?

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Joep

no... get a thermal ir gun and shoot the temps when engine is "hot"... and see what the temp is.. you may be chasing ghosts that aren't really there.. a few things to note.. slowly add fluid back into system to keep it from getting excessive air in it.. (will cause overheating do to pump cavitation.. not pushing only fluid but trying to move air also)... guages are an indicator not a diagnostic tool.. there is a 7volt regulator on these guages and if it is not close tolerance your guages won't even be close. get something that will help.. don't throw money out for no reason..

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Joep

as the sensei says.. grasshopper do not doubt the words of those with experience

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Damname

gotcha, will do :)

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DaveO430

[user=1657]Damname[/user] wrote:

heya dave
:)
very curious about your reply. i am open to all possibilities in this matter. in the event that the temp checks out with the gun or what have ya, what do you think it could be?

 

thanks

After you find out if it is actually overheating or not then you will know where to start to fix what. I doubt it is overheating but one thought is are you running a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water? Antifreeze is a good thing but if mixed too strong it will not cool as well as it should because it does not transfer heat as well as water.

I think you are going to find the gauge is reading wrong. Check your ground connections at the front coil bolt and the ground cable behind the left triangle engine mount and where the gauges plug into the harness. Bad grounds cause all sorts of strange problems.

 

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oldhack62

The previous owner of my '83 Interstate -- an old-timey motorcycle builder/customizer -- also changed the thermostat only to find he didn't like the resulting/residual high-temp gauge readings during a trip to Daytona Bike Week, so simply bypassed it altogether and rigged a manual fan activated by a fairing-mounted toggle switch.

Probably his strongest admonition to me when assigning ownership of the bike was to activate the fan prior to the temp gauge reading too near the red line. According to him, it works.

Since I -- like, I assume, most riders do -- check my gauges every few minutes/miles anyway, it doesn't seem like all that exotic or complicated a 'fix'.

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oldhack62

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oldhack62

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DaveO430

[user=1685]oldhack62[/user], posting something once is plenty, we will see it.

Putting a switch in for the fan is something a hack would do, not an (an old-timey motorcycle builder/customizer) it's OK in a pinch but not as a permanent"fix". If it is showing hot find out if it actually hot or if the gauge is reading high and either fix the overheating problem or the gauge or just take the high gauge reading as normal and stop worrying about it.

 

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lucky_x16

I could not agree with you more Dave.

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Johnny R

Well boys - I did choose to put in a switch, as I mentioned above in an earlier post, and I don't think any less of myself than of someone who chose to replace the sensor. Keep the shiny side up.

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lucky_x16

To each their own. The reason I would determine whether the engine is actually running at the correct temperature range or not, is the engine is designed to run best in a set temperature range. By checking that your temperature guage is working correctly or not then you have a better idea of the actual range.

 

It is doubtful that the fan temperature sensor switch is malfunctioning, and more likely your guage.

 

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Damname

on the steve saunders forum, people have been saying that the voltage regulator that controls the gauges might need tightened and the contacts cleans. while i was mounting the carbs and looking at wires under there, i found a CRACKED COIL.

 

its split from end to end along the top lengthwise. when i got the bike running after sitting forever, i never could get it to run quite right. i had also seen a few blue flashes from under the false tank, but completely missed the crack. together with the rebuilt carbs and having to buy a new coil....the bike should run like new.

 

seeing as there is a bad coil and blue flashing, could this cause low voltage to the instrument cluster?

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Joep

Was this the spark plug coil??? if so that probably not but would make your bike spit and sputter some.. the blue flashes would be the spark jumping to ground.. and it may not be deliveringpower to the plug or full power to the plug.. the only way this would cause voltage to the guage issues is if the bike wouldn't reach the charging breakover to run off the stator.. then you would have low voltage all over..

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New83wing

[user=669]Johnny R[/user] wrote:

Well boys - I did choose to put in a switch, as I mentioned above in an earlier post, and I don't think any less of myself than of someone who chose to replace the sensor. Keep the shiny side up.

Same here,im not paying a third of what i paid for the bike for a sensor...lol..i bought the wing for CHEAP money,to ride it...not to baby it,spend more money then its worth ect.Rides like a dream so far so good.i personally don't have the money to toss in a 50-100 sensor...mine has a querky overheating issue too.Only when its warm.i personally think its stuck open as to when i highway ride it gets pretty darn warm,when i slow down,temp does as well...even in traffic.thats with the fan going as well

 

 

 

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Guest AVCIII

79 GL1000

 

I know its been 10 years since this thread has been going; however, my temp gauge is acting just as New83wing describes. It makes it difficult to suspect the gauge just because it does seem to very due to how I ride. (Higher gear less revolutions,  (3.5k rpms) shows normal operating temps anything above 4k rpm engine starts heating to "Hot". I am looking to change out the thermostat, everything else seems to check out. Gauge appears to monitor temp correclty (doesnt shoot to Hot, actually seems to display temp), just flushed and replaced the coolant at the beginning of the season, fan switch functions properly, the only thing I could assume at this point is either the gauge or the thermistat.

 

Is there anything I am missing?

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OnaWingandaPrayer

The water pump may not be moving the correct flow of water . Steel impeller blades if eaten away with rust dont function correctly. 

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