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Halfling

Mounting Aspen Classic To 16' Trailer Project

63 posts in this topic Last Reply

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Monkeytrucker

Looking good in the neighborhood.  Nancy probably showed you where you went wrong.  You cannot begin to realize how much I am reminded of my "sparking" personality by someone here in the home.  Fire investigator gets her Wednesday morning.  I have the sick feeling we are going to lose big time.  might be cheaper letting your house burn down instead of insuring it.

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OnaWingandaPrayer
(edited)

John, I see your using old fashioned good luck to locate the trailer ;)  .  The project is looking good . 

 

If your ramps only rest on the floor/deck , you might consider drilling the floor/trailer end so you can put a peg in place to keep the ramps from dislocating off the trailer while loading/unloading.

Edited by OnaWingandaPrayer
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Halfling
2 hours ago, OnaWingandaPrayer said:

If your ramps only rest on the floor/deck , you might consider drilling the floor/trailer end so you can put a peg in place to keep the ramps from dislocating off the trailer while loading/unloading.

 

Yep, got it covered, it is item #8 in the first post. The ramps already have the holes drilled for the pins from my 12" trailer. Once my positioning is finalized I will drill out all of the matching holes in the floor/deck!

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Galaxyhunter

When the trailer is in the setup location, have you tried to lower the read jacks?  In pic 2, it looks like they will hit the 2x4s

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Halfling
8 hours ago, Galaxyhunter said:

When the trailer is in the setup location, have you tried to lower the read jacks?  In pic 2, it looks like they will hit the 2x4s

 

In those pics the camper is pulled forward further than the actual setup and transit locations to facilitate some grinding I was doing. When in its setup position the jacks clear. Also, due to the length of the tongue "A" frame I'll have to have two (2) positions, one for transit and one for setup. The two positions will only be about 6 inches different. In the transit position the entire camper including the tongue "A" frame is centered leaving an equal amount of overhang on each side (about 5-6"), in the setup position the camper tent/body is centered between the top rails.

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Halfling

Update for those that might be interested...

 

Brake Controller installed and tested, works as advertised and it will be easy to adjust for the full load. I like the ability to easily (manually) tap just the trailer brakes if needed.

 

We went to a metal yard and picked up two 63 Inch pieces of quarter inch angle iron for the removable side rails ($18). Oliver and I got the most important side done today (the side supporting the tongue during transit). He welded the 3/8" nuts to the underside to allow for easy installation and removal. It only has to be removed when off loading the camper. We also did another nut/bolt for a piece to hold the tongue in place. I may add some rubber strips to it or another bolt or two just to make sure it doesn't move but it's probably overkill!

 

The top rail on the other side will be mounted a bit lower to allow for clearance of the chrome bumper (may do it tomorrow, not sure). It will not support anything other than to reduce any possible trailer flex that MAY occur. It will also make sure that the camper doesn't accidentally roll off BUT I plan to have pre-positioned wheel chocks as well.

 

Tomorrow: Load the trike and play with the tongue weight for a bit. Once its final position is established we will be working on the motorcycle wheel chock and tie down points.

 

By this coming weekend I want to have the camper actually set up on the trailer so I can work on making it as "comfortable" as possible. I will also have to make sure that the head of the bed is supported properly over the tongue.

 

Click on pics to enlarge...

2018-08-27_14-18-16.png

 

2018-08-27_14-22-28.png

 

2018-08-27_14-24-39.png

 

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OnaWingandaPrayer

John, I wonder if the flatbed may need stabilizer jacks on the front two corners?  I suppose that depends on how much/often you will moving outside the triangle of the axles and tongue jack. 

Excuse my lack of knowledge on way the camper all folds out. 

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Halfling
14 minutes ago, OnaWingandaPrayer said:

John, I wonder if the flatbed may need stabilizer jacks on the front two corners?  I suppose that depends on how much/often you will moving outside the triangle of the axles and tongue jack. 

Excuse my lack of knowledge on way the camper all folds out. 

 

It's possible Mike but right now I'm thinking not. The only part that will be outside of the trailer bed will be the head of the bed which will be over the tongue. Once I get it set up this weekend I'll know for sure.

 

Maybe this picture will help with the visualization!

 

2018-08-27_17-23-57.png

 

 

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OnaWingandaPrayer

Ahh , I understood how the bed would extend over the tongue . I thought there may also be extensions front and rear of the camp trailer. So right it probably will be stable . 

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Monkeytrucker
3 hours ago, Halfling said:

 

It's possible Mike but right now I'm thinking not. The only part that will be outside of the trailer bed will be the head of the bed which will be over the tongue. Once I get it set up this weekend I'll know for sure.

 

Maybe this picture will help with the visualization!

 

2018-08-27_17-23-57.png

 

 

 

Buckfarrack has his set up on his trailer just like you are talking about.  He had his whole tongue over the rails on his trailer.  I think I have a photo of it and will try to find it.

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Monkeytrucker

Found a photo but you could only see part of that Harley colored camper sitting on the trailer covered by a tree limb in the distance.  Sorry.  

 

I would recommend you get the jacks set so the tent floor is exactly right, secure the camper down and simply put a small stand piece to land the bed bar.  Make it fold in upon itself so it will not get into your truck when jackknifing the trailer.  

 

Wish we had a trike so we could mimic your set up.  Do not think the Fiat would pull that set up.  But then we could put the Fiat on the trailer and pull it with a trike.  Naw, I think we will just get a dog.  Maybe the insurance will pay enough for our heat treated wing and accessories to afford adopting a Lab and buy some dog chow.  

 

Visiting nurse was not happy about my sun treated new skin.  Have to get my face to match the tan on my arms.   Motorcycle insurance company is very quiet.  Bet they are looking for a book value really low.  I am looking at what going to a dealer and buying one just like what we had, $12,900.  Of course that is without all of the accessories.  Called them and over the phone the sales guy did say they would take $12,000, accessories extra.  

 

Here boy, here boy, good doggie.  BTW, at IL M&G this year if we have a dog, it is absolutely not going to get anything but dog food.  Riding home with our last dog after Jobe05 kept feeding her ribs, made her a 4 footed toxic gas generator inside a Fiat 500.

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Halfling

Update: Got a little more done this morning before the temps and humidity got to high.

 

I drilled out the holes to put pins in the ramps to keep them in place during loading/unloading the trike. I got the trike loaded up and played with the positioning and got it settled in at just about 300 lbs tongue weight. The camper is nearly fully loaded but I expect to add another 100 lbs to it but less than 50% of that actually makes it to the tongue. This positioning seems perfect for pulling the load. We temporary secured the trike and drove it around a bit and also took it on the interstate for about 25 miles at various speeds (and lane changes) and it pulls straight as an arrow and very smooth. I won't usually travel at 80 mph but it did fine at that speed. The trailer brakes with controller were also perfect. I couldn't be more pleased at this point.

 

Looks like tomorrow will bring a bit more welding (plate for the motorcycle wheel chock as well as the top rail on the drivers side). Then, I'll start on the camper setup/alignment. Should be completely road ready by the end of this coming weekend!

 

Click pics to enlarge...

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2018-08-28_12-26-39.png

 

2018-08-28_12-27-10.png

 

2018-08-28_12-27-48.png

 

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DougW

I really hope you don't plan to tow with your straps wrapped around the steel frame like that, it wouldn't be far and your trike will be loose when the straps wear through against that steel.

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Halfling
22 minutes ago, DougW said:

I really hope you don't plan to tow with your straps wrapped around the steel frame like that, it wouldn't be far and your trike will be loose when the straps wear through against that steel.

 

1 hour ago, Halfling said:

We temporary secured the trike and drove it around a bit and also took it on the interstate for about 25 miles

 

0 I understand, it was a short test run for positioning.

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Monkeytrucker

John, Harbor Freight has those stick on red and silver reflective strips you see on the sides of truck trailers.  If you put them down the side and across the back I guarantee when some one comes up behind or in from your side they would never miss you had a trailer behind your truck or even know if your tail lights were out. 

 

I put them on the back and behind the rear fender opening down near the bottom and also on the back of the truck doors and at the bottom of the metal inside of the doors and the back top of the topper on the truck I gave my grandson.  No one tailgated him as those strips reflected their headlights extremely bright. 

 

I need to put them on the Aspen "Dusty Boots Bumper" now that we might be pulling it at night with the Fiat.  Never have enough eye catching protection.

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Halfling
1 hour ago, Monkeytrucker said:

John, Harbor Freight has those stick on red and silver reflective strips you see on the sides of truck trailers.  If you put them down the side and across the back I guarantee when some one comes up behind or in from your side they would never miss you had a trailer behind your truck or even know if your tail lights were out. 

 

Excellent idea Gary! It's ALWAYS good to be seen, even if you ARE trailering a Goldwing!!!

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flylow

John,

I'm sure you've thought about this before now but that seems to be a long top rail without a center support.  You could weld a square pocket to the frame and weld an upright to the top rail.  Bolting the upright to the pocket only adds one bolt to take out when removing the top rail, with upright attached.  Keep up the good work and reports.  This is a great project!

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Halfling
1 hour ago, flylow said:

John,

I'm sure you've thought about this before now but that seems to be a long top rail without a center support.  You could weld a square pocket to the frame and weld an upright to the top rail.  Bolting the upright to the pocket only adds one bolt to take out when removing the top rail, with upright attached.  Keep up the good work and reports.  This is a great project!

 

Excellent idea, I will give it some thought and see if my friendly welder feels like doing a few more welds for me!!!

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Halfling

Update: got the driver's side top rail (at the Aspen's bumper) installed. It is lower than the regular top rail to make sure that it clears the the chrome bumper of the Aspen (it goes under it). We also got the plates secured to hold the wheel chock in place and it now allows me to remove the chock by removing 4 bolts from the top side (I don't have to climb under the trailer to bolt/unbolt it).

 

Some things left to do are:

  • install several stainless steel eyelets for motorcycle tie down points
  • Paint all of the new steel pieces as well as some of the spots I hit with the grinder
  • Set the camper up on/inside the trailer and work through any setup issues that may arise
  • Decide on method I'll use to support the head of the bed over the utility trailer tongue

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Halfling

Today I prepped, primed and top coated (gloss black) the new top rails and miscellaneous pieces. Don't plan on doing anything further tomorrow, will set up camper on the trailer on Saturday to begin that phase of the build. 

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Monkeytrucker
On 8/29/2018 at 9:39 PM, Halfling said:

We also got the plates secured to hold the wheel chock in place and it now allows me to remove the chock by removing 4 bolts from the top side (I don't have to climb under the trailer to bolt/unbolt it).

 

Get your welder guy to weld some 3/8" rod across the heads of your hole down bolts to make them T-Bolts.  That way you would not have to look for the wrench.

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Halfling

Made some additional progress today although my son Jason stopped by and took me off track for about 3 hours with his own side project! I got the camper set up today and it went up pretty easy actually. I removed the chock (4 bolts from the topside), I also removed the tongue hold down piece (1 bolt) to free the camper for setup adjustment, I also removed the tongue side top rail (4 bolts) which is necessary to lower the stabilizers and I then realized that this 60" top rail could also be used to support the head of the bed support legs (I love multi-function pieces!). I will say that the camper is a lot easier to set up on the trailer than it is on the ground (especially the stabilizer leveling part)! I have it set all the way over to the right side but now that I am looking at the A/C unit I'm going to try it over to the left side. As far as the A/C goes, the fender height is just a bit higher than the actual opening but it does work as is HOWEVER I think I will try my hand at modifying the hole in the camper to allow for a better fit. That may end up being a down the road project for the off season. I will also need to position four tie-down points (eyelets or something) for securing the 4 corners of the floor. As you can see from the photos, we have a nice wooden 6X6 deck to work with.

 

Click pics to enlarge...

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2018-09-01_17-27-18.png

2018-09-01_17-28-21.png

2018-09-01_17-29-47.png

2018-09-01_17-31-21.png

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Monkeytrucker

Your AC is on opposite side than ours,  set up is looking good.

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Monkeytrucker
1 minute ago, Monkeytrucker said:

Your AC is on opposite side than ours,  set up is looking good.

Does yours have the elastic foreskin thing that slips around the unit?

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Halfling
1 hour ago, Monkeytrucker said:

Does yours have the elastic foreskin thing that slips around the unit?

 

No it does not...

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