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Wingerpeg

Trailer Wiring Isolater

39 posts in this topic Last Reply

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AZgl1800

Different trailer, but the idea is the same. The car is six wire just like Goldwings.

 

Here is a video of the LED brake lights flashing with the Emergency Flashers on, key off.

 

 

.

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Dusty Boots

It turned out to be the ISO trailer harness was the problem!!!

 

I removed that, quickly hooked up the 5 to 4 converter to the pigtails, then hooked up the trailer and everything works as it should.

 

Now to do a nice, clean and proper wiring job, using solder and heat shrink tubing.

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AZgl1800

awesome Ken,

 

you will have it fixed the Right Way by tomorrow... :)

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dwsonar

It turned out to be the ISO trailer harness was the problem!!!

 

I removed that, quickly hooked up the 5 to 4 converter to the pigtails, then hooked up the trailer and everything works as it should.

 

Now to do a nice, clean and proper wiring job, using solder and heat shrink tubing.

maybe that's why I could never get the converter to work. I didn't try removing the isolater

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brianinpa

Just wondering... what is/is not the benefit of an isolator wiring harness?  I have only ever used the 5 into 4 converters that do not require a battery power source and have not had any problems on the bikes or cars.

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Dusty Boots

The idea behind them (as I understand it) is that they are an independent power source for your trailer lights, all protected with little relays. If you were to have a short, it would just blow the one fuse powering it, and not feed back into the bike's electrical system to take out your bike's signals/brake/running lights etc

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brianinpa

Well, I can see where it could be beneficial, but I think I'll stick to what I am familiar with.

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AZgl1800

The idea behind them (as I understand it) is that they are an independent power source for your trailer lights, all protected with little relays. If you were to have a short, it would just blow the one fuse powering it, and not feed back into the bike's electrical system to take out your bike's signals/brake/running lights etc

 

yup,

and I can vouch that the idea works.

 

My car has a special 5 to 4 wire adapter that uses a 12v power source to power up the relays and trailer lights.

 

one day, the trailer's lights quit working..... looked and a wire was frayed, fixed that.

but it still does not have lights IF hooked to the car, the trailer lights are okay on the pickup truck..

 

Looked at the car's adapter and "wallah!" it has an extra wire, and a label on it that says "Requires a 12 volt fused source"

guess the fuse must have blown...... don't matter now though, a deer committed suicide with that car and we don't have it anymore :(

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Dusty Boots

OK, opening this thread up again

 

I have a friend with a 1800, who just bought a used 4 wire cargo trailer and he asked me what he needed for a harness etc.

Do you guys still just wire directly to the 5 to 4 wire converter, with no trailer isolater harness ???

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Monkeytrucker

Definitely put an isolator in the circuit.  Our 1200 burned up a harness because we did not have one.

 

Why not just go to Princess Auto or Cal auto and get tail lights that have yellow and red sections.  Then just change the wiring harness.  I believe one can get trailer light sets with the 5 wire harness ready to go.  But an isolator is good insurance.  Maybe if you had LED lights the draw on the Honda system would not be too much.  Be safe, spend a few bucks to put an isolator in if it does not have one.  Still think going 5 wire on the trailer would be the best.  The lights are probably the same as you can get at Princess.

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brianinpa
(edited)

While not an 1800, I recently did it to my 1200 Standard.  I just went to the U-Haul that I work at and bought the cheapest 5 to 4 converter we carry and wired it in.  I think I spent $13 for it, but my trailer has LED lights, so I am not too worried about the amps.

Edited by brianinpa

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Wingerpeg

When I originally started this thread, my issue was, the isolator that melted down did affect the lights on the bike, not just when plugged into the trailer.  No issues since the direct connect. 

 

So much for a protector and more of an instigator on the isolator connecter for the trailer which has removed the failure but on my other trailer I installed the converter for the 5 to 4 pinner.

 

Give me a good solid bass line and this kinda makes me a bit of a "shrink rapper" :Cigar:

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jobe05

Isolators were a good idea back in the Stater days.  With Alternators that put out a decent amount of power, there is no need for an isolator, none what so ever since they will melt down as they can not handle the wattage of the 1800.

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AZgl1800

 

I agree with Jobe05.

 

at Edgefield, SC for the NASSIR8 rally, the 5-4 wire converter and the isolator burned up on my bike....

typical per JJ.... and the guy told me to go "sit on your butt, I am going to fix this"   :startle:

 

so, I did, opened up my trailer and came out with a couple bags of goodies and he wired every straight thru.

I have not had one moment's worth of trouble with it since.

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