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youngnbald

Sharing my ideas

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youngnbald

My concept is to keep the weight down and not lug along extra stuff.  Fast setup is the next goal to achieve.

 

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10x10 tarp with Velco stitched on the edge.  In the garage, I don't have the poles set up to display.

 

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Male side of Velcro stitched on tarp and fastened to camper.  On the outer edge I have the female side of the Velcro (just like Velcro used on camper).  Additional tarps can added and staked to the ground to form a side shield.

 

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View of inside.  Table collapses flat and stores on top of gear.  AC tube is ready to install AC unit upon arrival.

 

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This is a new concept for immediate setup upon arriving at site.  This is stored on top of camper in the zipper pouch.

 

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Inside it the stakes, electrical hookups needed, flashlights, hammer and paracord.  This is enough to set up quickly in the dark and everything else needed is inside the tub.  Trying to find things in the tub is a hassle and this eliminates that.  Takes up no valuable space!

 

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Permanent stuff for trips.  Right to left is two heaters, coffee pot, window awnings, two drop cords, 10x10 tent, two chairs, late night emergency container (port-a-potty), two storage tubs (perfect fit between ac and axle, stores many items!!!!), AC unit, AC rack disassembled and legs stored in front of it, two painter poles and hardware shown later, outdoor mat, rope lights, wheel chocks, hangers, garbage bags and toilet paper.

 

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front of trailer available for packing the day of trip.  Rear is loaded with permanent gear.

 

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Rear of trailer.  More room to squeeze in more stuff.

 

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View of tub opened.  Two containers wedge AC into permanent position and gives perfect storage of fire starters, batteries, alarm clock, chargers, etc.

 

More on next post.....

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youngnbald

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Drilled holes into the top of the AC box to match the protruding parts of the AC rack.  Stores flat as you could see in other photos.

 

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Hanger unit built with 1/2 pvc, screws and hooks.  Velcro loops go around support and always stay mounted.  This small improvement gives hanging items a place to go.  Hangers going between roof and support is asking for trouble!!!!  Velcro is thin and soft!!!!!  The screws are every 1 1/4" and comes in handy if mounting on the angled support in front.  Clothes do not slide together then.

 

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AC Rack with 5 legs that detach and store anywhere with easy.  Base is stored on top of AC box and shown in other photos.

 

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Helmet and coat hanger on the painters pole supporting the doorway.

 

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Closer view of hanger support.  Screw locks in the pvc T that was cut in half to support frame.  This prevents twisting of painters pole.  The 1" pvc is then captured with a removable pull pin for storage.  Two couplings were used inside the ends of 1" pvc to reduce opening for painters pole.  3/4" would not work.  When pinned, the horizontal pvc cannot rotate and will always be set at 45 degrees in the corner.  The D-ring of helmet mounts on hook near painters pole and riding jacket is supported with horizontal pvc.  18" pvc was used to prevent jacket from touching the canvas and wicking weather into camper.  Other rack is same on the other side.  His and hers.  Both angle 45 degrees into the center of camper.  Not in the way entering and cleans up living space.

 

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Close up of clothes hanger.  Two hooks and small screws to prevent clothes from sliding together if hung from angled roof support.  No damage to roof between support when using Velcro loops as drops.

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Halfling

Dang it, my to do list just got longer....nice stuff Mark, thanks for posting!

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Parman

You all make my head hurt looking at all these modifications and ideas.

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youngnbald

I try to make the stuff simple, small and light weight.  Didn't mean to make the head hurt!  lol.  Taking others ideas and improving on it makes it more simple and others don't have to trial and error to find out what sucks.  Time will tell if my stuff is a go or a flop.

 

Leveling bubbles are not shown, but mounted on tongue and front of camper.  Setting up alone, the bubbles can be viewed as I raise the tongue into position or drive higher on the wheel chocks for leveling.  Will see how they hold up to the elements and use in the field.

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jobe05

I got my AC stand together, not glued, but together.  3/4" pipe goes together pretty tight, even with no glue, it's very sturdy.

 

I'll glue it together after I get my AC "Duct" Im having made.  It'll attach to the velcro lining on the inside of the tent.......  More to come on that after I have it made and get it installed.  Once I get it, then I'll have a better idea how long I need to cut the legs to, right now, I left them about an inch longer than what I suspect they will need to be.

 

IMG_3653%20Medium.jpg

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jobe05

Mark, when you get a chance can you take a couple pics and post on how the bunge straps are attached. I'm talking about the elastic straps that hold the tent in place before the cover goes on.

 

I am making my own, I have two made up and installed on the short side, but am not clear on the best way to mount the one for the long side. I am thinking of making 2 up for the long side as that is where the most of the tent hangs out anyways.....

 

Thanks

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youngnbald

I am taking tent down soon and will get photos if I remember!  The long side is offset.  Brady is talking of making the offset on the other side.  Right now the strap is left of the tongue (when viewed from rear).  If you make snaps on the right side, you would capture the most of the tent pulled up from the room side of tent.  The sides are held up either way.  I will try for photos soon.

 

The straps are snapped on the sides, back and front.  The short side is middle of the camper and like I said, the long side is offset to the left.  It would do more if done on the right.  Two would be good.  Each 1/3 of the way in.

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youngnbald

I pointed out to Brady that the straps to hold the windows in place when unzipped causes wicking of water into the tent.  He is talking of eliminating the straps up by the bed.  I cut my straps out at the bed!  They are useless due to material lays on the bed board if you did have them all the way open.  I am trying to figure out something on the other ones in the room area.  Maybe holding them up it wouldn't wick and drip into the room area.  Wondering if treating them with water sealer or something else would reduce the wicking?  Anyone fix this issue yet?  In a storm, I have constant drips from the tie straps into the camper.  They are soaked and source of water into the camper.  About to cut all of them off if it continues!

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jobe05

I'd bet a good spray of 3m water repellant in and outside would work well to keep the water from wicking

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Parman

The key to keeping the moisture from inside is to keep you heater going to help dry it out in cooler temps when condinsation builds up.

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youngnbald

The straps wick when you camp in storming weather.  I hear what you are saying Don.  My issue happens with rain storms.

I found out the hard way that the outer door must be shut during a rain storm also!  The rain will push right thru the zippers!  The outer flap covers the inner zippers and prevents this.  Learning every time I camp.

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jobe05

That's a handy tip to know..........

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Parman

I couild see that happening with the doors and screen. Never had the water wicking issue when raining in mine.

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youngnbald

I wonder if they changed material or something.  I will try a repellent and see what happens.  If it rains, the material is soaked and water beads are at the tips of the strap.  Puddles under each one.  I cut the ones off at the bed and will see what to do with these other ones.

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youngnbald

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I had a cooler fall off when a strap broke!  Lucky the cooler was the only thing destroyed.  I am playing with the idea of this being the support for the sides of the cooler.  It isn't strong (as in standing on it), but it is very light weight.  Once the cooler is mounted and straps pull upward, the 1/16 metal will be plenty to create balance and great tie off points.

 

The 90 degree conversion is another idea that you can see in this photo.  The vertical receiver is not an item you can buy in an emergency at Menards or any walk into store.  Great to use the rack from the 1500 or any other class 1 hitch components.

http://www.amazon.com/CURT-49506-Receiver-Tube-Finish/dp/B001GN1F6S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1435935932&sr=8-2&keywords=receiver+tube

 

 

This is something I have mounted on the trailer and motorcycle.  It gives a great location to deadhead your dangling wire!!!!  Just use the opposite plug to deadhead into.  I chose 4 wire since most vehicles are wired 4 wire.  Adapters are easy to find also to convert my 7 wire to 4 wire (on SUV).

http://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-48595-4Wire-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B0002Q81W6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435935149&sr=8-1&keywords=hopkins+4+flat

 

I am waiting for another receiver tube to be delivered.  I am going to mount it horizontal under this new cooler support.  My vertical receiver rack will mount into this location.  The cooler will be enclosed (trapped) on the side with this rack mounted there.  Once I am at my location, the small rack can then be mounted onto the motorcycle and getting supplies will be easier with the additional space gained again.  Hard to explain and photos will follow.

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jobe05

Halfling mounted his hitch rack to the tongue of his old trailer as well.  Certain racks are hard to find the receivers for.  I lucked out and got a rack that I can buy extra receivers for on line, but don't use it on the tongue of my trailers, so mute point.  On my old trailer, I had an old set of metal base and springs from a baby crib that I cut down and made a nice cooler rack with.  with the metal webbing that runs through the base, I had attachment points wherever needed.  The metal on those crib rails is "L" shaped and very hard as well so they hold up to anything!!

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youngnbald

Mounting the vertical to the tongue is a pain!  I don't have the extended tongue and placement is tricky with this layout.  Halfling have photos?

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Halfling

Mine's a bit different.....these photos will give you a clear idea of my setup. I mount it in reverse on the tongue with 2 pins and a bolt. Pretty easy to take off and the 2 pins are used on the bike side as well.

Trailer (03).jpg

Trailer (04).jpg

Trailer (05).jpg

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youngnbald

I would need to redesign the existing cooler rack to change the mounting.  The vertical design for the 1800 sucks.  Yes, it hides the receiver, but functionality bites!

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jobe05

I pointed out to Brady that the straps to hold the windows in place when unzipped causes wicking of water into the tent.  He is talking of eliminating the straps up by the bed.  I cut my straps out at the bed!  They are useless due to material lays on the bed board if you did have them all the way open.  I am trying to figure out something on the other ones in the room area.  Maybe holding them up it wouldn't wick and drip into the room area.  Wondering if treating them with water sealer or something else would reduce the wicking?  Anyone fix this issue yet?  In a storm, I have constant drips from the tie straps into the camper.  They are soaked and source of water into the camper.  About to cut all of them off if it continues!

 

I see what you mean Mark......  and it's not just a few drops of water, it's about a cup, depending on the amount of rain of course, but it's a fair amount.

 

Im going to pick up a can of 3M water repellent and see what that does.

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DougW

Mark, have you tried seam sealer on that?

 

they make some that is a liquid that turns into like a rubber when it sets. That stuff might do the job if it soaks into the straps good enough.

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youngnbald

I am going camping tomorrow and will have the camper set up then.  Will need to try something while it is set up.  Doesn't look like rain in our forecast.  Thanks for the advice Doug.

 

Taking the kids to Door County, Wisconsin.  This work day will be too long!  Looking forward to test my new creations in the Aspen.

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youngnbald

Went camping with the kids last week and discovered common things upon hooking up and camping for 4 days.  A bigger cooler (120 quart) was purchased and support rack is now complete.  Still needing to complete things, but last night I mounted the electrical boxes on rear of the camper.  Once setup at site, the source electric is always on the opposite side of camping area.  By installing 120 vac outdoor boxes on the rear of camper, the need for extra electrical cords is reduced.  Rope lights, coffee maker and electric skillet is now with an easy access power source (four outlets on rear).  Another box up front with a male plug "pigtail" is ready to be connected to the main source of electricity.  This sources the rest of the 120 vac boxes and one 12ft power strip plug into the front box and feeds power into the interior of the camper.

 

Just needs water hook up and shower installed.  LOL.

 

Packed up and going camping tonight in Kentucky.  Partying with the wild HD people at Little Sturgis over the weekend!  Will learn more how the improvements make setup easier.

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Dusty Boots

Mark, have you tried seam sealer on that?

 

they make some that is a liquid that turns into like a rubber when it sets. That stuff might do the job if it soaks into the straps good enough.

 

 

Apply some McNett/Gear Aid Seam Grip to the seams where those straps are attached to the tent body, Mark. Apply it with the included solder brush and let it cure for 4 hrs and then give the treated area a light dusting of talc/baby powder to eliminate the tac.

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