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Dusty Boots

Dusty Personalizes His New Ride w/Mods

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Dusty Boots

Looks like I have Officially retired my bike for this riding season.   :sad-face-still:


Time to do mods and upgrades while we wait out the  l o n g  non riding winter season here!  :Cigar:























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Dusty Boots

I'll be adding the 'Dusty Touch' to it over the winter.  :happy:








Edited by Dusty Boots
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Dusty Boots

Was able to get out in the shop a bit yesterday.

I stripped of both inner and outer parts of the hard lowers on each side, the engine guards, lower fairing sides, front fender and top of the dash as well as fixing the poorly fitting trailer hitch that was installed by the PO.

Next up will be the toughest job of removing the inner fairing panel (6 very hard to reach bolts) and then figuring out where I'll be running the wiring for all my planned electrical add-ons.  :confused-face-still:







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Dusty Boots

OK, I got a little more time to work on the bike later this morning.

I removed the inner fairing panel from the bike.

I then removed the 12V outlet on the one side and a spare 'blank' switch panel from the other.

I installed a lighted cigarette lighter in place of the 12v outlet and I'll be installing a V1 switch with a 24" lead for a Mo-Door remote garage door opener where I removed the blank.


I also added a 10 position fuse panel, drilled a hole through the aluminium 'bulk head' and added a bolt with lock nut/washer to act as the main grounding bar for the new electrical accessories I'll be adding.

Then I had to shut it down for the day, as I had to get an ingredient for my Turkey Casserole I was making for dinner tonight.













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Dusty Boots



OK, tried the drag n drop thing again and this time it worked.


One of the mods I'll be doing is adding a strip of amber LEDs along the inside edge of the hard lowers and hooking them up to my turn signal system.

Not so easy as it seems as the bike has a CANbus system controlled by the ECM, so I have to grab my 'feed wires' from the isolated trailer wiring harness which the PO wired in on the liner of the rear fender










I also intend of running a strip of amber LEDs along the bottom edge of those large running boards as a running light to give the bike some visibility from the sides.


One of the main challenges is routing/hiding the wire runs as there are no frame members along the front/bottom as the engine itself is part of a stressed frame




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Is my monitor acting up or did you sneak in a color change while we were napping ???  Looking good Ken...

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Dusty Boots

Ha, you're pretty sharp there, Terry! 

That is just a photo of another fella's bike that has done one of the mods I'll be doing, strictly for Illustrative purposes so you get an idea of what I'll be doing.

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Yes , I was sure the bike started out red. I was about to go back to the beginning for another lookee see. LOL   Keep up the good work Ken.

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Ken, here is a wiring tip I have used for years.  When you have to run a power line thru cramped quarters with sharp edges use some nice grade of antenna feed line such RG-58.  That way if the wire were to get abraided the ground which would be the nice braided shield will not short and you have an insulator before getting to the B+ wire,  


For low voltage wires for LEDs you could find even smaller antenna feed line and your wires would be cleaned up to only one tiny cable.

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Dusty Boots

Got some more wiring done on the bike yesterday after going to the PO to pick up a couple of packages.   ;)

Lots of soldering and crimping.
Got the connectors all done for the lighted cigarette lighter, tapped into the low beam headlight wire (hot all the time key is on) and used that to trigger a 40 amp relay (that I soldered on a IN4007 resistor to prevent back EMF to the ECU) and then on to my 10 position fuse panel, so that all my electrical add ons are keyed. 
I removed the 2 main power/ground wires for the trailer isolator wiring harness running from the battery terminals and ran them to my fuse panel.
I also modified and extended my heated clothing battery harness wire so it can plug into my battery tender harness, so that eliminates another set of ring terminals at the battery.
I also drilled 2 holes through my floorboards and added rubber grommets to protect the wires for my LED floorboard running lights, which I just mocked up for the time being.
Tomorrow, I'll do the other floorboard and wire in my hardwired power cable for my GPS unit

















Got a little more time out in the shop today after doing domestic duties.  B)

I cleaned up a bit from yesterday, wired up my GPS hardwired power supply and ran the cord out by my GPS mount.
I then drilled and grommeted 2 holes in the right floorboards for the LED running lights for it.
I also added labels to the new power wires coming in, some components I added and the fuse panel, before calling it quits to start on dinner.
















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Very nice work!

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On 12/13/2017 at 4:44 AM, Dusty Boots said:

OK, tried the drag n drop thing again

I first read this wrong and thought you were trying to drag the bike and dropped the thing..... LOL



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Dusty Boots

OK,  I guess it's time for an update.   ....


I received a couple of Big Bike Parts dual LED conversion circuits, that will allow my runningboard lights and some side firing LEDs I plan to install on a light bar up front I'm in the process of fabricating to act as running/position lights and turn signals.

The number and type of LED diodes affects the intensity of the dimmed LEDs, as in running/position lights, before they go to full intensity, such as turn signal mode.

Here's a short clip of the actual 2 strips of LEDs I'll be using. The one on the left is for the runningboards, while the side firing ones on the right will be for the position/turn signal lights for the light bar.

I think it'll work out as intended.




Here's a couple of shots of the LED strips in mock up, along the runningboards (run/turn signals) and just inside the hard lowers, which I decided will only activate with the turn signals.


The LEDs just inside the hard lowers will be used just as signal lights.  ...





These are the runningboard LEDs in turn signal mode.  ...







Both acting as turn signals.  .....






I had to wait for the side firing LED strip, which along with the run/turn signals up on the lightbar, I decided to add to the inside edge of my saddlebags as additional turn signals.













Again, here they are mocked up.  ....






in turn signal mode with the shop lights on.  .....






with the shop lights turned off.  ...








Then I ran into a smoking deal on a Victory factory Stage One kit, which includes Cobra Tri Oval pipes, a performance air filter and a ECM flash upgrade (which I have to take to a service center to get done by authorized dealer).

Regular price is $1,000 for the kit, but I managed to score the brand new kit for $179.00, including shipping. The pipes are SEMA J2825 noise level compliant , so they are not much louder at idle, or cruising, than the stock pipes.

I really like the looks of the new Tri Ovals!!!

























Stock pipes.  .....












The new Cobra Victory Stage One Tri Oval pipes.  ......
















The new Stage One Performance Air Filter.  ....






It installed with a new 'regular' air filter above it.   ....








I was at one time hoping to mount my new aux LED driving lamps on the engine guards, but because the re is very little room to run the wires beneath the plastic up under the hard lowers, I decided to try my hand at fabricating a light bar under the fairing/headlight.

I saw a couple of unused, threaded bosses and another couple of threaded spots where I could attach a fabbed mounting bracket to, so I cut some 1" x 1/8" mild steel for the rear holes, cut and bent some 2" x 1/8" mild steel for the front holes and to hold the light bar once I weld it to some 1/2" EMT conduit that I have to cut and bend yet. Then I';; weld some 1 1/2" angle to the ends to mount the lights.





Here is the mounting bracket with stand offs mocked up.   .....












I have to decide on the angles I'll bed the conduit to yet and then weld it all up.



I also got a good deal on a removable backrest as well!


















I had to modify the mounting bracket a bit with a die grinder so it would sit at a comfortable angle for me, as it was forcing me ahead and into a far too upright position to be comfortable.   .....











At the end of this past week, I finally received some waterproof 2 wire connectors from China, so I can start to finnish up most of my LED wiring mods. 

Seeing as the Victory has no frame to run/hide the wiring up from the runningboards/hard lowers LED mods I'm doing (the engine is a stressed member of the cast aluminum frame) it's a challenge to be able to run the wires with quick connects (in order to remove those parts in the future without having to cut/rewire everything) up into the fairing to hook up to power.


Here are the connectors I ordered from eBay.   ....





















I probably mentioned this before, but what makes it very tricky adding any electrical additions to the Victory is the fact it is a CANbus system, which is monitored by the ECM and if it sees anything like a minuscule change in the electrical system, it shuts it down to protect the bike. So, I am using the isolated trailer harness on the rear fender to power all these additional LEDs, which requires running lots of wire!!


I think that pretty well brings it up to date as far as installed/mocked up electrical mods go, along with the Stage 1 kit.

Not sure if I mentioned I added an adjustable timing wheel (advanced 4 degrees) and a quarter turn throttle ring to it earlier or not. (?)


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Dusty Boots

Today I started in on hooking up some of the additional LED strips wiring harness.

After a false start where I had to run into the Princess Auto in London, ON to purchase some additional 18 gauge wiring in the needed colours, I tapped into the running light, (green) right turn signal (yellow) and  the brown left turn signal wires on the downstream side of the isolated trailer wiring harness, which is located under the metal portion of the rear fender.


I opened up each of the needed trailer harness wire and soldered on a connection, added some dielectric grease to the joint before wrapping them with electrical tape.









I then ran those wires inside a braided wiring loom up towards the seating area towards the front of the bike and secured the loom with about 6 wire/zip ties to existing wiring harness runs.













I then cut into the trailer wiring harness ground wire to solder up a couple of ground wires needed for those side firing LED aux turn signal strips, I'll be placing on the rear inward sides of the saddlebags.

I also smeared some dielectric grease on them before wrapping tape around them, after I trimmed up a couple pieces of wire insulation.










Then I had to tap into the running light wire, about 5" before it's termination, to solder in a pig tail for the 2nd LED Dual Conversion Harness, as each turn signal circuit requires it's own harness.










I then soldered/connected the running light wires to the brown running light input wires on both LED Dual Conversion Harness'es and covered with heat shrink tubing.
I decided to call it a day at that point .









Edited by Dusty Boots

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May I suggest you remove all of that vinyl electrical tape and replace it with 3M or Scotch rubber sealing tape?


Wrap it tight, stretch it as you go, so that it will mold down real tight... you press it with your fingers and it molds down into one contiguous sealed lump.

Moisture will never wick into the joint.


What you have isn't providing any moisture protection at all... just some physical contact with something else is all that tape does.  I have had to remove that stuff and it leaves a gooey mess, and I find corrosion under it all the time.





3M™ Temflex™ Splicing Tape 2155 with self-fusing rubber backing, has rubber-resin adhesive that offers optimized adherence. This tape is designed for low-voltage electrical insulating and moisture-sealing applications. It maintains the flexibility over a wide range of temperatures. Electrical insulating tape finds application in bolted connections, service drops, lightning connections, ground rod connections and motor leads.





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Dusty Boots

Thanks for jogging my memory, John!

I do have some left over Magic Wrap, which is basically the same as you describe, as it stretches to roughly 3 times it's length and will self fuse onto itself and leave no residue when you go to unwrap it.

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Dusty Boots

I rewrapped those splices with the Magic Wrap tape this morning.   ....














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