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Bluthundr31

Flex-seal on vacuum lines?

22 posts in this topic Last Reply

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Bluthundr31

Every one of our beasts is getting older each year, , and each rubber vacuum hose is getting closer and closer to a "failure" condition.

 

Has anyone tried using "Flex-seal" spray on the hoses to either retard a "failure", or to temporarily fix a cracked hose??  The dang infomercial has a bunch of wild claims, , , temporarily plug up an air leak., , , ,???

My 26 yr old ride will be needing new hoses soon, , , I'm just wondering how to best prepare for that moment.

 

Any and all comments welcomed, how do you deal with cracked/leaking vacuum hoses?

 

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DaveO430

If you can get close enough to it to spray something on it why not just replace it? 

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Bluthundr31

Just for giggles, check ANY goldwing "Parts chart" that is for our 20-30 year old rides, , , , You'll find usually half a dozen hoses/tubes that are "discontinued" or "no longer available".  That means we have to locate one from an old/discarded Goldwing while we pray that it is "good".   And THAT is assuming that you can find the exact replacement hose, which assumes the "seller" knows the correct part number of what he has, and it IS what you need (doubtful).

 

Some of the hoses that are available still, cost quite a bit, but atleast they are still available.  However, even that will change in time.

 

So getting "close enough. . . . replace it?" isn't the entire issue when figuring out how to fix, or resolve it.

 

whoa, , ,did i accidentally list this in the "Answer a question with a question" topic??  You should be really good at that topic, , , you weren't real "thought-provoking" with this one.

 

 

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roscoepc

C'mon now!! Dave was just asking a reasonable question!! And he DID try to answer!! ;) As far as using the Flex Seal or something similar, yeah it MIGHT work as a temporary fix but I would be concerned about the stuff leaching into the cracked area and totally blocking the hose... And unless it's a REALLY tight curve requiring a formed hose, OTC standard vacuum line should do ya fine...

 

FWIW, you think it's hard getting parts for your 1500, try it on a 1200 that's Fuel Injected!!!! :blink: :lol:

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Bluthundr31

You’re right Don thanks.  

The hoses with the tight turns will be harder to deal with for sure.  I was hoping someone with an “oldie-but-goodiel” had experienced an issue like this and give some food for thought.

i don’t know that I’ll ever face this, but I was just thinking out loud.  It might be worth a try as a last resort.

Thanks again

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OnaWingandaPrayer

I have bent steel tubing  sections and used straight hose to replace molded corners .

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Monkeytrucker

As a fan of Flex Steel I think it would work.  Spray a glob on a piece of cardboard and use a little brush to dab it on the hose.  

 

I used it on the truck I gave my grandson.  Typical 85 dodge with the rockers gone and the tops of the wheel wheel arches.  Sprayed all of them with rust converter, covered them with high grade duct tape, masked off the rocker panels and the same over width over the wheel arches and sprayed them with black Flex Steel.  He is in his fifth year of driving it and this summer I had to patch one spot and that was only because he slid off into a snow bank and tore the tape over the rocker panel.

 

Picture is Gramps and grandson when they came to haul the truck up north.  I surprised him with the flames.  This is the truck he learned to drive when he was 10.  It is a 4 speed manual transmission.  The old dodge is still running great today.  He had to replace an A-frame and a place called Tuffy's screwed him royally.  Then he had to replace a spindle because that same Tuffy's chain when they replaced the front rotors did not grease the front wheel bearings adequately.  Same outfit that screwed us royally when we had to leave the astro up there because of a bad steel brake line.  They way over charged and when we got it home I had to bleed the brakes because they did not get them bled good.  They are a shoddy cheating chain.

 

 

IMG_5658.JPG

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Bluthundr31

Thanks for the idea Mike, , ,I'll look at possibly bending conduit tubing (light and flexible for bending) for the "tight" turns, then attaching with screw clamps, or tension clamps.  The majority of the hoses will be fairly easy OTC hose replacements.

 

Thanks Gary for the response.  If I resort to using the flex-seal, your idea sounds like the perfect way to get the job done. A thick coating, and letting it dry completely before installing it seems like the best way to keep it from causing a problem down the road.  

 

Thanks all for your input.  Its ALWAYS good to stir up the grey-matter between the ears.

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OnaWingandaPrayer

The tubing I used is brake line with a tube bender its not bad . Copper tube would also work.

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Bluthundr31

Good idea Ona, ,isn't the copper awfully "soft" when you try to cinch down a clamp?  Maybe a simple "tension" clamp wouldn't collapse the copper though.  I'll have to look into it for sure.  Thanks again

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roscoepc

If you tighten down enough to crush the copper the rubber hose will be cut long before you get to that point!! Copper will do fine!! And for really tight bends try using a small bolt like a 1/4-20 to keep the metal line from crimping if you don't have a pipe bender...

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Monkeytrucker

When you try to bend the copper you might want to anneal it first to make it easier to bend.  Heat it cherry red then quench it is cold water.  Then it will be soft enough to allow some really tight bends without collapsing or kinking.  After you bend it you can take some sandpaper or steel wool and make it pretty again.

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Bluthundr31

OK, thanks for all the good information folks.  I didn't know what "annealed" treating meant until now, great to know.

 

I was reluctant to tackle a hose problem until you folks came up with some great ideas, , Thanks again everyone.

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AZgl1800

just fill the copper tubing with dry fine grain sand, then bend it.

 

problem solved.

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Bluthundr31

AH-HAA!!  That solution is great, , ,THANKS JOHN

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AZgl1800

I have tried to use FlexSeal 3 times, and it was a miserable failure all three times.

 

1st time on my fireplace chimney on the roof.....

that darn crap just pealed back and was totally useless to keep water out.

 

I tried it again on the sill plate to keep water from running into my shop...

another waste of good wallet money.... 3 cans of that crap used to try and keep the sill plate from allowing water to run underneath.

 

I will never again, allow FlexSeal to fall into my shopping basket.

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OnaWingandaPrayer

but, but, John , I saw the screen bottom boat he sealed with flexygoop . It was amazing ;)

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Steed
1 hour ago, OnaWingandaPrayer said:

but, but, John , I saw the screen bottom boat he sealed with flexygoop . It was amazing ;)

 

Now now Mike, we all know they don't sell the "GOOD" stuff in Oklahoma...

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Bluthundr31

Well hell Mike and Terry, , , , Its not like I was suggesting to use it on all my SCUBA gear!!!!  , , , although, , , hmmmmm , ,I wonder, , , :roflmao:

Edited by Bluthundr31
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Monkeytrucker

I sprayed the Skylight outer plastic cover that was cracked with the clear flex-steel.  Appears to be working OK but I did not realize I was getting over spray so the metal roof around the Skylight has a lot of pebble bumps.  At least the ice has something to stop ice slides.  Where we sprayed the inside of the gutters at the joints it is working.  However at the gas furnace triple wall stack going thru the shop roof it did not work because of movement of the stack flexing more than it would hold.  Ended up packing shop towels into the gap and using old fashioned mule hide.

Edited by Monkeytrucker

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AZgl1800

that must be it, the warranty is void in Oklahoma LOL

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