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Bringing '91 1500I out of 8 yr "wet" storage. What should I be MOST concerned with?



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#21 Bluthundr31

 
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Posted A week ago

Fuel filter is clear and not the problem.  

 

FUEL PUMP: I put a multimeter (+ probe) on the spade terminal where the black connector is (Stamped "B") on the round metal disc atop the fuel tank. (-probe went to ground).  Turned the key on and expected to see voltage showing that the pump is "primed" ready to start.  NO VOLTAGE when key turned on.  I don't know if the fuel pump "primes" itself every time the key is turned on though.

Hit start button (Kill switch in "run" position) and voltage jumped to 10.5VDC with starter spinning like a top, but still no "run".

Disconnected the voltmeter, disconnected the hose at the "inlet" side of the fuel filter and hit the "start" button again to see if the pump would flow gas to the filter side of the tank, , , , NOT A DROP OF GAS!! 

 

Looks like I'll be removing the fuel pump and possibly replacing it.  I'm hoping that its just "clogged" with gunk and will work once it is cleaned real well.    



#22 Bluthundr31

 
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Posted A week ago

I checked, and have spark at the plugs.  I'm reading more to find why I don't get voltage at the fuel pump when the key is turned on and kill switch in "run" position.  If anyone has an idea, let me know. 



#23 newday777

 
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Posted A week ago

Test fuel pump and the petcock.
There is a jumper test in the repair manual for the pump.

#24 Bluthundr31

 
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Posted A week ago

I tried what you suggested (the fuel pump flow test) but ran into a problem, , ,
The Clymers book says to disconnect the "engine control unit electrical connector". With the connector freed, I would put a "jumper" from pin 4 (blk/whi) to pin 21 (blk/blu). My problem comes when the black plastic "housing" of the connector came free but the yellow connector is stuck to the ECU still. I'm worried that I'll damage the wires if I pull on them too much. There's not much room to grip the connector but I'm working on it. Does the connector have a "tab" holding it on, or is it merely a tight fitting connector?

#25 Bluthundr31

 
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Posted A week ago

I finally have the connector freed from the ECM.
Dam, those spade terminals are smaller than my jumper probes. How did you get good connection from the blk/whi wire to the blk/blue wire?

#26 newday777

 
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Posted A week ago

Sorry I haven't been on. It's been over a month and I don't remember what it looks like. I think I just used a piece of wire but a paperclip might work too.

#27 Bluthundr31

 
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Posted A week ago

I'll try the paperclip.  Without a decent connection, it could give a "false impression" that the fuel pump is bad, , when actually its just a "bad connection" problem at the ECM.  

 

The manual says that the "stop" switch and the Bank Angle Sensor are linked to the fuel pump.  I did the test on the "stop" switch and it is working correctly.  When I checked the Bank Angle Sensor, I didn't get the results that the manual says I should get.  I disconnected the sensor at the grn connector, put the black voltmeter probe (-) on the grn wire and the red voltmeter probe (+) on the red/whi wire.  The manual says I should get 0-1 volts when I turn the key on, , , , but I got 11.5 volts.  I checked numerous times and got the same result.  The manual says to put the - probe on the grn wire and the + probe on the white wire to get 10-14 volts, , ,which was fine because I got 11.5 volts.  I'm thinking that my bank Angle sensor might be shot.  Now I need to figure a way to by-pass the bank angle sensor to trick the fuel pump when i jump the two wires at the ECM.  Would a jumper from the green wire to the white wire by-pass the bank angle sensor???? hmmm, , , lemme think bout that one, , , ,  



#28 Bluthundr31

 
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Posted A week ago

I figured the solution to the jumper problem. I had two "fork" connectors for 22AWG wire, I cut off one fork thru to the base on each, then used a short 22 AWG wire between them and crimped em tight. I'm confident it's a good connection/jumper.

Still NO JOY on the Bank-Angle sensor by-pass though, , ,I'm stumped trying to make sense of the schematics.

#29 newday777

 
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Posted A week ago

BAS bypass

http://www.goldwingf...s-gl1500-2.html
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#30 newday777

 
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Posted A week ago

http://goldwingdocs....topic.php?t=651
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#31 Bluthundr31

 
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Posted A week ago

You're a lifesaver Newday, , , thanks, the info is greatly appreciated, , ,

I decided to put a jumper "after" the green connector but "before" the sensor body just in case I find a reasonable replacement. That way I can just plug-and-play without any modification because the plug is unvhanged.

#32 Bluthundr31

 
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Posted 6 days ago

Bank Angle sensor by-pass completed.

Pulled the ignition relay (#8) and tested it. The brass and copper prongs read out correctly.

Here's a quick recap from the point it was idling fine on the lift, then it just died and wouldn't start. (1/2 tank gas w/sea foam);
1. B4 I touched anything I turned the key off, then back on and did NOT get the normal 2 second "prime" from the fuel pump. I checked for voltage on the black connector (marked B) for the fuel pump but got NO voltage with key on, hit start button and the engine spins but NO voltage on black connector.

2. The manual says the kill switch could prevent the pump from working, so I tested the kill switch (red connector by fan). Kill switch tested fine.

3. The manual says the bank angle sensor (BAS) could prevent the pump from working, so i tested the BAS and found it was shot. I by-passed the BAS and checked Relay #8, which is the ignition relay where the BAS wires go. Relay tested fine. I checked fuse 2 (15A) and 11 (15A) and both are good.

I also tried to get the fuel pump to work by jumping the blk/blu to the blk/whi wires at the engine control module (ECM) but got no response at the fuel pump.

I'm back at square one, I'm going to figure out why I'm not getting voltage at the black connector on the gas tank.

Can I bypass the ECM to power the fuel pump directly by putting the + side of the battery to the black terminal and the - side of the battery to the "G" terminal?

#33 Johnny R

 
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Posted 6 days ago

Just an aside on the BAS.  Honda has a service bulletin out on it.  If yours was ever replaced there should be an 'X' engraved on the frame, right side, under the side cover.  If frame does not have the 'X', Honda dealer will do it under warranty.  Yes, under warranty, even after 25 years.  Just google Honda goldwing bank angle sensor warranty



#34 Bluthundr31

 
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Posted 6 days ago

Good info John but once I saw the failure of the BAS, I checked and confirmed there is an "X" on my frame. I had it done back when the recall came out.

I'm going to try to get the fuel pump to work with direct power. Hopefully, I'll get it going.

#35 Bluthundr31

 
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Posted 5 days ago

With the voltmeter red (+) probe on the (B) connector terminal and the voltmeter black (-) probe on ground I get no voltage when the key turns on. Same result when I hit the start button. (Kill switch is in "run" position)

With the ECM connector disconnected and a jumper from blk/blue wire to blk/whi wire I get 10.5 volts at the (B) connector when the key turns on. Hit the start button and engine cranks but no gas flow.

Because I can get voltage on (B) connector but no gas flow, I'm going to remove/replace the fuel pump ASAP.

I'll address the voltage issue after I get a working pump installed.

#36 Bluthundr31

 
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Posted 3 days ago

Got a used fuel pump and new rubber base gasket (eBay) coming next week.

Got the old pump out and was shocked at all the rust and crud in the tank. I heard/read some information about cleaning the tank through an "electrolysis" method, or a vinegar concoction. I tested the vinegar one on my gas cap and was amazed at how well it worked after only one hour. The results are an unquestionable success, I'll probably do the inside of the tank using the vinegar method and hope the results are close to what it did for the gas cap.

#37 Bluthundr31

 
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Posted 3 days ago

I used the vinegar concoction on the inside of the tank, and it was a VERY decent result, , , (not like a "NEW" tank inside, but the small amount of discoloration is tolerable), ,

 

1. Straight down from Fuel Pump hole;

 

Before  Attached File  1fp hole str8 down_old.jpg   71.91KB   0 downloads        After Attached File  2fp hole str8 down_new.jpg   73.65KB   0 downloads

 

2. Fuel pump hole from back to front showing float-sensor;

 

Before Attached File  3fp hole_sensor old.jpg   62.31KB   0 downloads              AfterAttached File  4fp hole_sensor new.jpg   55.7KB   0 downloads

 

3. Fuel pump hole from front to back;

 

BeforeAttached File  5fp hole frt-back_old.jpg   75.81KB   0 downloads              AfterAttached File  6fp hole frt-bk_new.jpg   65.05KB   0 downloads

 

4.  Fuel pump hole from left to right;

 

Before Attached File  7fp hole_l-r_old.jpg   66.75KB   0 downloads                    AfterAttached File  8fp hole_l-r_new.jpg   84.26KB   0 downloads

 

5. Fuel pump hole from right to left;

 

Before Attached File  9fp hole_r-l_old.jpg   59.18KB   0 downloads                      After Attached File  10fp hole_r-l_new.jpg   70.16KB   0 downloads

 

6. Gas cap hole straight down;

 

Before  Attached File  gc hole_str8 down_old2.jpg   72.86KB   0 downloads        After Attached File  12gc hole_str8 down_new.jpg   46.13KB   0 downloads

 

After the concoction is drained and with inside is wiped dry, I put a thin film of Mystery oil all over the inside to prevent "flash rust" from setting in.  The new pump won't be in for a few days so I can't fill the tank with gas, and since Mystery oil can mix with the new gas when I fill up, it should be good-to-go.

 

BONUS!!! After you drain the vinegar concoction out of the tank into a bucket, drop about a tablespoon of dish soap per gallon of mixture and stir well.  The vinegar concoction is an EXCELLENT weed killer and the dish soap will make the mixture "adhere" nicely to the leaves of the weeds.   It'll kill ANYTHING though so don't use it on the lawn or any "cute" flowers/"tasty" veggies ect., , , Mama will have you sleeping on the couch for months!!!!!

AT BEST, YOU GET A CLEANER TANK AND NO MORE WEED PROBLEM, , , , AT WORSE YOU GET A CLEANER TANK AND RUSTY WEEDS!!!  WIN-WIN



#38 DaSkipper

 
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Posted A day ago

Your plan sounds good.

Good luck!







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