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Trailer Wiring Isolater


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#21 Halfling

 
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Posted 14 August 2016 - 08:21 PM

You can't do this like you suggest if your trailer is not wired correctly or doesn't have these "Marine style boat trailer lights" of which you speak (which I am not familiar with). A 4 wire trailer will not work on a 5 wire Goldwing just by running a parallel plug and a 5 wire trailer will not work on a 4 wire vehicle either. That is exactly why I installed the lights I did on my Aspen Classic and wired them to accept either 4 or 5 wire input but a jumper wire has to be installed for 5 wire operation. As you can see from the diagram, on a 4 wire trailer the left and right brake lights are separate and also carry the left and right turn signal (a flashing red). On a 5 wire trailer there are extra lights (usually amber) that carry the segregated turn signal and the red brake lights are tied together. Now, if these Marine lights can sense either condition then I guess they must work as you suggest.

 

Attached File  New 4 and 5 Wire Configuration e.jpg   201.7KB   0 downloads

 

 

 



#22 AZgl1800

 
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Posted 15 August 2016 - 03:34 AM

You are making it to hard JT.

The 5 wire plug has an additional Blue wire that goes to only a separate set of brake lights. Those brake lights are not used at all when the 4 wire plug is used.

The Marine style boat trailer lights are just the same thing we buy at any auto parts store. The 1157 bulb filament (LED) turn light is dual function like always in the 4 wire hookup.

In the 5 wire situation it is ONLY a turn signal.

The extra Blue wire goes to the extra Brake only lights.
I am on my cellphone now, well draw it up tmw when i get to the big PC.

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#23 Halfling

 
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Posted 15 August 2016 - 07:16 AM

The 5 wire plug has an additional Blue wire that goes to only a separate set of brake lights. Those brake lights are not used at all when the 4 wire plug is used.

 

That's the key right there...a separate set of brake lights...my configuration does not have a separate set of brake lights and they are not filament lights, they're LEDs.

 

No need to reply, I get it.


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#24 AZgl1800

 
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Posted 15 August 2016 - 07:55 AM

Mine are now all LED also, much brighter.



#25 Dusty Boots

 
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Posted 2 weeks ago

I'm in the process of wiring up my flat 4 cargo trailer.(all LED brake lights)

Everything works as it should when the cargo trailer is hooked up to the flat four on my truck

I have an ISO trailer wiring harness on my 1500 and run a round 6 to my Aspen camper (all LED brake lights) with brakes. No issues at all there!

When I wire in a five to 4 converter to the bike and hook up my cargo trailer, I have no brake/turn signals on the right!!  :sad-face:

When I unhook the wire to the right turn signal leading into the 5 - 4, I get 12 volt reading from the bike. As soon as I attach the wire to the converter and attach my multi meter to where I hook up those 2 wires (upstream of the converter) the voltage drops right off to under 2 V

 

Suggestions???  ...  get rid of Isolator??

 

BTW  ...   I chose to run 2 separate trailer connectors. A 6 round for the camper and a round four for the cargo trailer



#26 AZgl1800

 
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Posted 2 weeks ago

Different trailer, but the idea is the same. The car is six wire just like Goldwings.

 

Here is a video of the LED brake lights flashing with the Emergency Flashers on, key off.

 

 

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#27 Dusty Boots

 
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Posted 2 weeks ago

It turned out to be the ISO trailer harness was the problem!!!

 

I removed that, quickly hooked up the 5 to 4 converter to the pigtails, then hooked up the trailer and everything works as it should.

 

Now to do a nice, clean and proper wiring job, using solder and heat shrink tubing.


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#28 AZgl1800

 
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Posted 2 weeks ago

awesome Ken,

 

you will have it fixed the Right Way by tomorrow... :)


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#29 dwsonar

 
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Posted 2 weeks ago

It turned out to be the ISO trailer harness was the problem!!!

 

I removed that, quickly hooked up the 5 to 4 converter to the pigtails, then hooked up the trailer and everything works as it should.

 

Now to do a nice, clean and proper wiring job, using solder and heat shrink tubing.

maybe that's why I could never get the converter to work. I didn't try removing the isolater



#30 brianinpa

 
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Posted 2 weeks ago

Just wondering... what is/is not the benefit of an isolator wiring harness?  I have only ever used the 5 into 4 converters that do not require a battery power source and have not had any problems on the bikes or cars.



#31 Dusty Boots

 
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Posted 2 weeks ago

The idea behind them (as I understand it) is that they are an independent power source for your trailer lights, all protected with little relays. If you were to have a short, it would just blow the one fuse powering it, and not feed back into the bike's electrical system to take out your bike's signals/brake/running lights etc


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#32 brianinpa

 
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Posted 2 weeks ago

Well, I can see where it could be beneficial, but I think I'll stick to what I am familiar with.


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#33 AZgl1800

 
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Posted 2 days ago

The idea behind them (as I understand it) is that they are an independent power source for your trailer lights, all protected with little relays. If you were to have a short, it would just blow the one fuse powering it, and not feed back into the bike's electrical system to take out your bike's signals/brake/running lights etc

 

yup,

and I can vouch that the idea works.

 

My car has a special 5 to 4 wire adapter that uses a 12v power source to power up the relays and trailer lights.

 

one day, the trailer's lights quit working..... looked and a wire was frayed, fixed that.

but it still does not have lights IF hooked to the car, the trailer lights are okay on the pickup truck..

 

Looked at the car's adapter and "wallah!" it has an extra wire, and a label on it that says "Requires a 12 volt fused source"

guess the fuse must have blown...... don't matter now though, a deer committed suicide with that car and we don't have it anymore :(






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