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Wingerpeg

Trailer Wiring Isolater

33 posts in this topic Last Reply

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Wingerpeg

Do all or some utilize an isolater in the wiring for the trailer.  I had my isolater short out causing some light malfunctions.  I've now wired it directly to the bike.  Is it advisable to to replace the isolater or do most just run direct.to the bike wiring? 

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jobe05

Skip the isolator!!  I haven't seen an isolator built yet that can handle the wattage/amperage that is required, or the 1800 puts out.

 

I have wired many up direct to the bike wiring with zero issues after many thousands of miles.  However, I would HIGHLY suggest that all wire connections be soldered and shrink wrapped.  If you do that, you'll never have to revisit trailer wiring on that wing unless you get a different trailer connection.  Also make sure the connector with the bear metal pins sticking out go on the trailer side.........  If you put that end on the wing, it will short out as anther respected member here can attest to (No names however).......

 

Wiring direct will require a 5 pin connector, either a 5 pin flat or 6 pin round will work.

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Parman

I've only had one wiring issue which was self inflicted so I went to a direct wire connection and have had zero issues with several 1000 miles on the bike now.

 

No comments from the peanut gallery John. :roflmao:

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DaveO430

If you have LED trailer lights there is nothing to worry about. You are not the first to have one of those isolaters short out.

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jobe05

I've only had one wiring issue which was self inflicted so I went to a direct wire connection and have had zero issues with several 1000 miles on the bike now.

 

No comments from the peanut gallery John. :roflmao:

I didn't mention any names.................

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AZgl1800

Skip the isolator!!  I haven't seen an isolator built yet that can handle the wattage/amperage that is required, or the 1800 puts out.

 

I have wired many up direct to the bike wiring with zero issues after many thousands of miles.  However, I would HIGHLY suggest that all wire connections be soldered and shrink wrapped.  If you do that, you'll never have to revisit trailer wiring on that wing unless you get a different trailer connection.  Also make sure the connector with the bear metal pins sticking out go on the trailer side.........  If you put that end on the wing, it will short out as anther respected member here can attest to (No names however).......

 

Wiring direct will require a 5 pin connector, either a 5 pin flat or 6 pin round will work.

 

 

Don't believe a word this guy says..... :SmileyTooth:

 

he had to hit me over the head, well, almost.... at N8 in Edgefield, SC mr. Jobe05 pulled out the isolator and 5-4 converter that melted in my bike.

 

an hour later, with the tool kit and spare parts I was carrying, he was done.... shrink wrap and ProCrimper and all. :)  :Face-Smile-Big:

 

have not had a minutes worth of trouble since, and the lights are brighter than they were before. :agreed-with-sign:

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Wingerpeg

Thanks guys...if anything I was thinking maybe an inline fuse, but if there's a short it'll just trip the fuse in the fuse box on the bike anyway ..right?

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jobe05

Yes, just like if a light circuit on the bike shorted out somehow, it would pop a fuse.......

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Pearl Rider

Now you have me wondering. I just installed a isolater. Had one on the 1500 and never had a problem. What is the difference in the 1800 and a 1500 with a compufire as far as amps

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DaveO430

Now you have me wondering. I just installed a isolater. Had one on the 1500 and never had a problem. What is the difference in the 1800 and a 1500 with a compufire as far as amps

 

The amp output of the alternator doesn't matter, it is the amp draw of the component. If you have 200 amp service to your house it doesn't mean a light bulb gets 200 amps.

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Pearl Rider

Funny I just went back and read jobe post and he states 1800 OUTPUT. Everything I have has LEDs installed so I

Not worried about amp draw just wondering why is there a problem with the isolators and what is causing them to melt

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AZgl1800

The isolator by itself is not really a concern for me.

 

it is the damned 5 to 4 wire convertors...

 

turn on the Hazard 4 way flashers and watch the trailer lights to see what I mean.

but a word of caution, don't do that very long, or the 5 to 4 wire box just might go up in smoke. Mine did.

 

the lights flicker in the oddest, unfathomable pattern you can ever believe when you activate the 4 way flasher with a '5 to 4' wire adapter.

 

it just don't work

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jobe05

I mentioned the out out of the alternated, along with the draw, meaning the pass through current that would go through the isolator is more than the isolator is built for. Obviously there are other factors, but it boils down to the isolator can not handle it. Same goes with the 1500, but the isolator sod seem to hold up a little better on the 1500's than they do the 1800. I have seen many isolator a burn out between the first few minutes to the first few hundred miles on an 1800, but with the electrical set up on the 1500 and the 1800, their just not needed. It's a pass down theory from the Stator days that you need one, and you don't

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DaveO430

Funny I just went back and read jobe post and he states 1800 OUTPUT. Everything I have has LEDs installed so I

Not worried about amp draw just wondering why is there a problem with the isolators and what is causing them to melt

 

John is a great guy and I like him a whole lot but apparently he doesn't understand electricity much either.  They melt because they are cheap junk.  What they are attached to has nothing to do with it.

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flylow

The concept of an isolator is that if a malfunction was to occur, on the trailer, the fuse in the isolator circuit will protect your bike wiring.  You may lose the trailer lights but all light on the bike will still function.  Dave is correct, there is a bunch of junk out there!  Look for higher quality and stay away from the cheap ebay stuff.  You can find them at a trailer supply store, a trailer builder shop, high end auto parts stores, and maybe Graingers or Northern tool.  I will be changing mine out one day, I installed it before I knew about the failure rate of some brands.

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Pearl Rider

OK i understand what is being said and trying not to get my butt Ina sling here. I just installed one from big bike parts. Are these prone to problems???? Taking the bike and the trailer out tomorrow for our shake down test before we head to Montana

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DaveO430

OK i understand what is being said and trying not to get my butt Ina sling here. I just installed one from big bike parts. Are these prone to problems???? Taking the bike and the trailer out tomorrow for our shake down test before we head to Montana

 

Probably no different from any other. I think the failure rate may be exaggerated anyway.  

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Halfling

I installed an isolater on my 1800 at least 5 years ago, my trailers have been converted to all LEDs to lesson the load. No problem what so ever....none. All my connections are solder and heat shrink. The ONLY problem I have ever had was with the 5 to 4 convertors which are not manufactured to carry very much of a load so they fail. I fixed that particular problem by making both of my trailers 5 wire for a direct connect. I see nothing wrong with the technology or concept of an isolater and it does protect the bike's wiring from a trailer short.

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Pearl Rider

I ride with 3 guys most of the time and 2 of them have had problems with the 5 pin round. I have all my stuff wired with a 6 pin round and leave the center terminal open.

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AZgl1800

I don't like the round connectors.  IMO, it is just too easy to have stray strands of wire cross over and short something out.

 

I use the flat rubber connectors. They are stable, and easily accessible anywhere....

 

and, it is super easy to parallel a 4 pin rubber plug with a 5 pin rubber plug on the trailer's wiring harness.

 

If you tow that trailer with a car/truck, you use the 4 wire plug, and the regular Marine style boat trailer lights do their thing.

 

If, though, you hook up to a Goldwing, or a car with the 5 wire system ( our Pontiac Vibe ), then you use the 5 wire plug...

the 5 wire plug enables the extra brake lights to be used, and the Marine "brake light" are dedicated as Turn Signals.

 

Easy, Peasy and it just plain works... no fancy stuff required.

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Halfling

You can't do this like you suggest if your trailer is not wired correctly or doesn't have these "Marine style boat trailer lights" of which you speak (which I am not familiar with). A 4 wire trailer will not work on a 5 wire Goldwing just by running a parallel plug and a 5 wire trailer will not work on a 4 wire vehicle either. That is exactly why I installed the lights I did on my Aspen Classic and wired them to accept either 4 or 5 wire input but a jumper wire has to be installed for 5 wire operation. As you can see from the diagram, on a 4 wire trailer the left and right brake lights are separate and also carry the left and right turn signal (a flashing red). On a 5 wire trailer there are extra lights (usually amber) that carry the segregated turn signal and the red brake lights are tied together. Now, if these Marine lights can sense either condition then I guess they must work as you suggest.

 

New 4 and 5 Wire Configuration e.jpg

 

 

 

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AZgl1800

You are making it to hard JT.

 

The 5 wire plug has an additional Blue wire that goes to only a separate set of brake lights. Those brake lights are not used at all when the 4 wire plug is used.

 

The Marine style boat trailer lights are just the same thing we buy at any auto parts store. The 1157 bulb filament (LED) turn light is dual function like always in the 4 wire hookup.

 

In the 5 wire situation it is ONLY a turn signal.

 

The extra Blue wire goes to the extra Brake only lights.

I am on my cellphone now, well draw it up tmw when i get to the big PC.

 

.

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Halfling

The 5 wire plug has an additional Blue wire that goes to only a separate set of brake lights. Those brake lights are not used at all when the 4 wire plug is used.

 

That's the key right there...a separate set of brake lights...my configuration does not have a separate set of brake lights and they are not filament lights, they're LEDs.

 

No need to reply, I get it.

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AZgl1800

Mine are now all LED also, much brighter.

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Dusty Boots

I'm in the process of wiring up my flat 4 cargo trailer.(all LED brake lights)

Everything works as it should when the cargo trailer is hooked up to the flat four on my truck

I have an ISO trailer wiring harness on my 1500 and run a round 6 to my Aspen camper (all LED brake lights) with brakes. No issues at all there!

When I wire in a five to 4 converter to the bike and hook up my cargo trailer, I have no brake/turn signals on the right!!  :sad-face:

When I unhook the wire to the right turn signal leading into the 5 - 4, I get 12 volt reading from the bike. As soon as I attach the wire to the converter and attach my multi meter to where I hook up those 2 wires (upstream of the converter) the voltage drops right off to under 2 V

 

Suggestions???  ...  get rid of Isolator??

 

BTW  ...   I chose to run 2 separate trailer connectors. A 6 round for the camper and a round four for the cargo trailer

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