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Trailer Wiring Isolater


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#1 Wingerpeg

 
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Posted 11 August 2016 - 03:07 PM

Do all or some utilize an isolater in the wiring for the trailer.  I had my isolater short out causing some light malfunctions.  I've now wired it directly to the bike.  Is it advisable to to replace the isolater or do most just run direct.to the bike wiring? 



#2 jobe05

 
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Posted 11 August 2016 - 03:22 PM

Skip the isolator!!  I haven't seen an isolator built yet that can handle the wattage/amperage that is required, or the 1800 puts out.

 

I have wired many up direct to the bike wiring with zero issues after many thousands of miles.  However, I would HIGHLY suggest that all wire connections be soldered and shrink wrapped.  If you do that, you'll never have to revisit trailer wiring on that wing unless you get a different trailer connection.  Also make sure the connector with the bear metal pins sticking out go on the trailer side.........  If you put that end on the wing, it will short out as anther respected member here can attest to (No names however).......

 

Wiring direct will require a 5 pin connector, either a 5 pin flat or 6 pin round will work.



#3 Parman

 
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Posted 11 August 2016 - 04:31 PM

I've only had one wiring issue which was self inflicted so I went to a direct wire connection and have had zero issues with several 1000 miles on the bike now.

 

No comments from the peanut gallery John. :roflmao:



#4 DaveO430

 
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Posted 11 August 2016 - 04:58 PM

If you have LED trailer lights there is nothing to worry about. You are not the first to have one of those isolaters short out.



#5 jobe05

 
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Posted 11 August 2016 - 05:00 PM

I've only had one wiring issue which was self inflicted so I went to a direct wire connection and have had zero issues with several 1000 miles on the bike now.

 

No comments from the peanut gallery John. :roflmao:

I didn't mention any names.................



#6 AZgl1800

 
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Posted 11 August 2016 - 06:50 PM

Skip the isolator!!  I haven't seen an isolator built yet that can handle the wattage/amperage that is required, or the 1800 puts out.

 

I have wired many up direct to the bike wiring with zero issues after many thousands of miles.  However, I would HIGHLY suggest that all wire connections be soldered and shrink wrapped.  If you do that, you'll never have to revisit trailer wiring on that wing unless you get a different trailer connection.  Also make sure the connector with the bear metal pins sticking out go on the trailer side.........  If you put that end on the wing, it will short out as anther respected member here can attest to (No names however).......

 

Wiring direct will require a 5 pin connector, either a 5 pin flat or 6 pin round will work.

 

 

Don't believe a word this guy says..... :SmileyTooth:

 

he had to hit me over the head, well, almost.... at N8 in Edgefield, SC mr. Jobe05 pulled out the isolator and 5-4 converter that melted in my bike.

 

an hour later, with the tool kit and spare parts I was carrying, he was done.... shrink wrap and ProCrimper and all. :)  :Face-Smile-Big:

 

have not had a minutes worth of trouble since, and the lights are brighter than they were before. :agreed-with-sign:


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#7 Wingerpeg

 
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Posted 11 August 2016 - 09:11 PM

Thanks guys...if anything I was thinking maybe an inline fuse, but if there's a short it'll just trip the fuse in the fuse box on the bike anyway ..right?



#8 jobe05

 
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Posted 12 August 2016 - 05:10 AM

Yes, just like if a light circuit on the bike shorted out somehow, it would pop a fuse.......



#9 pearl rider

 
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Posted 12 August 2016 - 05:20 PM

Now you have me wondering. I just installed a isolater. Had one on the 1500 and never had a problem. What is the difference in the 1800 and a 1500 with a compufire as far as amps

#10 DaveO430

 
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Posted 12 August 2016 - 05:28 PM

Now you have me wondering. I just installed a isolater. Had one on the 1500 and never had a problem. What is the difference in the 1800 and a 1500 with a compufire as far as amps

 

The amp output of the alternator doesn't matter, it is the amp draw of the component. If you have 200 amp service to your house it doesn't mean a light bulb gets 200 amps.


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#11 pearl rider

 
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Posted 12 August 2016 - 05:43 PM

Funny I just went back and read jobe post and he states 1800 OUTPUT. Everything I have has LEDs installed so I
Not worried about amp draw just wondering why is there a problem with the isolators and what is causing them to melt

#12 AZgl1800

 
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Posted 12 August 2016 - 05:44 PM

The isolator by itself is not really a concern for me.

 

it is the damned 5 to 4 wire convertors...

 

turn on the Hazard 4 way flashers and watch the trailer lights to see what I mean.

but a word of caution, don't do that very long, or the 5 to 4 wire box just might go up in smoke. Mine did.

 

the lights flicker in the oddest, unfathomable pattern you can ever believe when you activate the 4 way flasher with a '5 to 4' wire adapter.

 

it just don't work



#13 jobe05

 
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Posted 12 August 2016 - 07:34 PM

I mentioned the out out of the alternated, along with the draw, meaning the pass through current that would go through the isolator is more than the isolator is built for. Obviously there are other factors, but it boils down to the isolator can not handle it. Same goes with the 1500, but the isolator sod seem to hold up a little better on the 1500's than they do the 1800. I have seen many isolator a burn out between the first few minutes to the first few hundred miles on an 1800, but with the electrical set up on the 1500 and the 1800, their just not needed. It's a pass down theory from the Stator days that you need one, and you don't

#14 DaveO430

 
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Posted 13 August 2016 - 06:49 AM

Funny I just went back and read jobe post and he states 1800 OUTPUT. Everything I have has LEDs installed so I
Not worried about amp draw just wondering why is there a problem with the isolators and what is causing them to melt

 

John is a great guy and I like him a whole lot but apparently he doesn't understand electricity much either.  They melt because they are cheap junk.  What they are attached to has nothing to do with it.



#15 flylow

 
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Posted 13 August 2016 - 10:36 AM

The concept of an isolator is that if a malfunction was to occur, on the trailer, the fuse in the isolator circuit will protect your bike wiring.  You may lose the trailer lights but all light on the bike will still function.  Dave is correct, there is a bunch of junk out there!  Look for higher quality and stay away from the cheap ebay stuff.  You can find them at a trailer supply store, a trailer builder shop, high end auto parts stores, and maybe Graingers or Northern tool.  I will be changing mine out one day, I installed it before I knew about the failure rate of some brands.



#16 pearl rider

 
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Posted 13 August 2016 - 08:31 PM

OK i understand what is being said and trying not to get my butt Ina sling here. I just installed one from big bike parts. Are these prone to problems???? Taking the bike and the trailer out tomorrow for our shake down test before we head to Montana

#17 DaveO430

 
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Posted 13 August 2016 - 09:14 PM

OK i understand what is being said and trying not to get my butt Ina sling here. I just installed one from big bike parts. Are these prone to problems???? Taking the bike and the trailer out tomorrow for our shake down test before we head to Montana

 

Probably no different from any other. I think the failure rate may be exaggerated anyway.  



#18 Halfling

 
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Posted 14 August 2016 - 07:20 AM

I installed an isolater on my 1800 at least 5 years ago, my trailers have been converted to all LEDs to lesson the load. No problem what so ever....none. All my connections are solder and heat shrink. The ONLY problem I have ever had was with the 5 to 4 convertors which are not manufactured to carry very much of a load so they fail. I fixed that particular problem by making both of my trailers 5 wire for a direct connect. I see nothing wrong with the technology or concept of an isolater and it does protect the bike's wiring from a trailer short.


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#19 pearl rider

 
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Posted 14 August 2016 - 06:57 PM

I ride with 3 guys most of the time and 2 of them have had problems with the 5 pin round. I have all my stuff wired with a 6 pin round and leave the center terminal open.

#20 AZgl1800

 
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Posted 14 August 2016 - 07:49 PM

I don't like the round connectors.  IMO, it is just too easy to have stray strands of wire cross over and short something out.

 

I use the flat rubber connectors. They are stable, and easily accessible anywhere....

 

and, it is super easy to parallel a 4 pin rubber plug with a 5 pin rubber plug on the trailer's wiring harness.

 

If you tow that trailer with a car/truck, you use the 4 wire plug, and the regular Marine style boat trailer lights do their thing.

 

If, though, you hook up to a Goldwing, or a car with the 5 wire system ( our Pontiac Vibe ), then you use the 5 wire plug...

the 5 wire plug enables the extra brake lights to be used, and the Marine "brake light" are dedicated as Turn Signals.

 

Easy, Peasy and it just plain works... no fancy stuff required.






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